The Mecca for fashion enthusiasts has started! Philips fashion week Ljubljana 2013 day 1 has successfully ended and here are my comments and reviews on the shown collections.
I was wearing Escada blazer and dress, Barbara K. Germ accessories and Converse sneakers.
Miro Mišljen is our young controversial designer, he is a believer in pure creation through the language of fashion. There is an interesting story behind his Mary Magdalene collection. His inspiration comes from the ladies of the night – prostitutes of Amsterdam. Their garments invite passers to their embrace; the patterns open a reflection on the life of stigmatized friends from the night. To say this collection is complex is something of an understatement. On the runway there was an equal sense of intense, detailed labor in what Mišljen produced. The detailed lace and adding big colorful flowery “hats” made the collection a hidden link between a story and the fashion world. A smart accessory was added to the collection – a man in a dress, it emphasized the darkest hour just before the dawn.
“The journey is the essence of women” was the slogan that described the collection ID of Sofia Nogard. Patterns, colors expose all aspects of the gentler sex. Versatile patchwork, contrasts symbolize a layered personality and detailed bright colors soften the rustic materials. The playful experimenting with pattern cutting had something of a very art-ish feel about them; the tailoring made the eye mix color a optical perfection. Nogard chose her most known fabrics like, the nubby wool of a geometrical-detail jacket or her soft leather accessories that score the highlight of a cold winter atmosphere.
Fashion designer Tanja Zorn also dressed the models in in contrasting lines, playing with light and darkness. Her collection Chiaroscuro was not what many expected, the jackets were made by what it looked like scratchy materials from an old stuffed toy, garments that looked unfinished and the breezy dresses at the end—those were better off ignored. Still, there were other items worth calling out, notably a full black gown with half sleeves, among the finer pieces was also a demure cocktail dress in black lace with varying degrees of transparency – Très chic!
“Who’s the animal here and who’s the man? Who’s afraid of whom now?” Was the issue of Simona Munc – Niti niti and her I will survive collection. This is actually as obtuse a statement as it first sounds. The cave man look suggested we were in for something different at Niti Niti today, but all we were served was just colors that were grayed-out and foggy. Materials and knits were dusty and we were shown designs that we already have in our closets. This was merely a show, far from calling it a fashion show. Lack of focus has been a recurring theme this seasons collections, as more than a few designers seem to have taken an “down-at-the-heels” approach to putting together their looks.
But last is always the sweetest. Describing Alice Bossman’s collection she would say “Construction. Deconstruction. Forms. Lines. Details. Volumes. Wearable. Comfortable. Feminine. ” And so it was. She had a natural yet smart approach to style with a tactile lineup full of hushed nude tones and rich neutrals, which are unusual for winter season. There were things here that might at first appear to be mere decoration—the cascading zippers of fabric, which completed her collection to the fullest. It’s safe to say that her big bang collection was the infinity of tailoring, throughout the very last piece.