Day two was getting a bit better than day one. Everyone was more or less relaxed or maybe it was just too much cake. The designs were good, but only a few really spoke to me.
Prints may have dropped off the Milan radar this season, but not at Dajana Ljubičič collection. The loosened-up silhouette made the structured dresses really pop with the minimalistic prints. Bermuda pants in gray and a cropped white blazer had a refreshing crispness while still looking lightweight enough to wear on the road. You know a designer has hit the spot when more than one woman gets those big shopping eyes, poking their husbands and saying the same breathless line, “I want every single piece.” There was actually poetry to these clothes, but walking the runway in snake print pants, leather dress or crazy Lennon glasses, Dajana showed that the models glow power too. Leave it to her to tweak authoritative and bright colors into something that felt modern and new.
Fifty shades of Simona Lampe 😉 The very sexy rainy collection was beautifully put together with accessories and rain boots. The design specialized in: over-sized leather jackets, leather gloves, even trench coats with cheeky lace insets, swimming suits with gorgeous geometric detailing, cropped schoolboy blazers, and a see through party pants topped by designer umbrellas. All in all, a fun, sexy ride.
Draping, transparency, and minimal layering were the core elements at work in Ana Jelinič collection. The clothing moved from dark to light, by the end, Jelinič was manipulating, folding, and wrapping the models with masculine seriousness. The collection moved fluidly and freely around the body. In her agenda, there might have been purity and precision, but the modern accessories also emphasized that it was not all about control and minimalism.
Last but not least is Nioka, the collection that we are all going to remember it by the two naked Niokas peeping out of the models dress 😉 Jokes a side the show didn’t lack for charming pieces: It started strong with a creamy over-sized jacket on white pants, and it ended well, too, with a black long dress covered in a black and white motif. In between, though, it was difficult to get around why the designer insisted on the cool blues and creamy whites that were used almost exclusively. Certainly there are other, prettier colors for spring/summer. Maybe the clothes could have used more finessing too. Everything looked like it’s actually slipping of the models, they were prissy when they should have been bad-ass sassy.
Runway photos by Philips Fashion Week